Li Kailuo: Exploration Of The Development Of Chinese Clothing Circulation Business

In September 19, 2010, "2009-2010 China Textile and garment enterprises competitiveness 500 strong conference and 2010 China Textile and garment circulation mode innovation forum" was held in Haining, Zhejiang. The forum was hosted by Haining Municipal People's Government of Zhejiang province.

At the forum, China is famous.

　　我每次演讲的时候都会推荐一本书，这本书08年在美国很受欢迎，《后美国世界》，它的一个副标题就是群雄崛起的经济新秩序时代，这个话题是美国08年大部分人最关心的内容，甚至奥巴马先生，我今天不是介绍这本书要讲什么，但是有一件事情呈现在我们面前，今天我们面对是一场世界格局的重新的划分，网上一直在探讨中国真的是成为世界第二大经济体吗，当然也有人开玩笑说，我们被第二了，但是对于中国今天所面对的挑战，内生经济、创新驱动，实际上发出了一个重要的信号，我们要抛掉原本的钮扣经济，什么叫钮扣经济，过去我们所有生产依赖类似像钮扣这样的素材产品去出口，而今天我们要重新调整我们思路的时候，这场格局其实在你眼前已经展开来了，所以我从这个话题想跟各位探讨的是中国的时尚的竞争格局。

尽管今天会有很多是纺织业的企业，今天给自己的命题叫中国服装流通渠道的商业变革，我们可以通过服装企业在这场市场竞争当中，不断的演化过程当中，我们来找寻规律，如果我们谈到这个问题的时候，这场格局可以说基本上在目前中国的中高端市场大部分被国际品牌掌控，而且随着这几年越来越明显，除此之外，二三级市场已经成为国际品牌布局最重要的战略，可以简单看几个数字，GUCCI在今年4、6月份两个月的时间五家店铺，布局的重点已经走向二三线城市，LV22个月里面开了7家专卖店，而且在温州这些地区已经开店了，Zara的步伐会在中国加快，前不久我碰到一个在深圳做LED灯的生产企业，他说我终于接到了一个生意，说这个很难接，是阿玛尼的品牌在中国，说我这个订单接下来不是一个小订单，因为我跟他们开会我发觉原来他们准备在11年在中国有80家店

Shop, I will do this business, of course, UNoLO, in China, there are thousands of stores in ten years, so we have to give us a thought. How big is China's market? So many international brands are stirring up in China's emerging market. How big is China's market?

　　安踏在09年店铺有6600多家，特步是3511，李宁7249家，森马是3000家，我们在听别人说千店计划的时候，中国企业在思考是什么呢，叫万家流通的概念，要开万家店铺，这个概念我们过去无法理解，说中国的市场一千家店都是很可怕的数据，今天要开一万家店铺，所以当商业资本跟金融资本结合的时候，其中最重要的一个引擎就是万家店铺的增容是非常有资本的吸引力，如果以一个非常简单的数据，地级市600个，县级市2800个，如果假设全国上场开设1500个销售网点，地区级市开设店铺以5-8个计，县级市开1家专卖店，全国二三线城市的网点可以达到8600个这样的规模，这么大一个市场规模，如果中国自己的企业不去重视，那真的是很可惜的一件事情，所以允许我们在探讨一个大概念叫流通，或者是更具化探讨一个话题就是流通渠道，这个渠道在欧洲是没有的，也不会

Yes, but in China, in the process of constant growth and constant evolution, of course, when we understand this concept, we do not want to define it from a scientific point of view, and the process of our goods from production to consumers, which includes the way, environment or form of commodity circulation.

In fact, let's take a look at the clothing enterprises in China. At present, there are several channels for circulation, and the first is department stores. The competition in department stores is a must for brands. No matter how much the buckle is deducted, a lot of promotions are good, the game between stores is still an important channel for garment enterprises.

Second professional markets, it is clear to everyone that the professional market is also a very important channel for clothing. Whether it is wholesale and retail mode, wholesale sale mode or wholesale mode of production, or a new professional mode of large circulation, this is also a very important channel for clothing circulation. Third commercial streets, and all the commercial streets in China, and even the streets, have become a very important circulation channel.

OK, or WAL-MART, it's a procurement system, including procurement and shopping centers, and even hotels and airports have become an important new channel for brands. Especially for some men's clothing brands or leather goods brands, the opening and contribution rate of hotels and airports is not low. It is a place where high-end customers are concentrated. When we do not care about this place, it becomes a kind of circulation channel. Of course, the multimedia platform is not only confined to TV shopping, but also classified as multi media. In the past, we said it was a channel, and later it was a market. No matter how to define it, it has become an important way and link for clothing circulation. This is the first point that we just straightened out in the past few years. Fourth large supermarkets, of course, are currently in the world's largest supermarket in China, Carrefour.

It seems that if we analyze this way, the classification of the conventional circulation channels in the clothing industry seems to be in front of us. When we are discussing innovation and pformation, we must think about the problems that can be innovated, and where we can change the problem. But it seems that this is probably the case in front of us. We have to think with problems, and whether there are other possible changes. Let me keep this question first. Wait a minute. Do we seem to be able to answer or enlighten us?

The second question is: what is the inevitable change of circulation channels? What is changing is the way of retailing and the innovation of formats. It is very simple. If circulation is the way, we should go out of your way. If you restrict too many conditions, I will have to open the channel myself, or I will change my retail mode again.

Therefore, the evolution of the retail industry has also been pformed from the evolution process of the entire circulation industry in the past hundred years. Let's look at the three years from 07 years to today. If we can summarize it or sample the case, we simply take these viewpoints, not necessarily completely accurate, but for everyone to share.

　　第一个模式，在07年到现在三年间出现比较明确的模式，综合大店SPA的模式，SPA概念的提出者是美国一个很大的零售的巨额，作为上市公司为了扩充自己，要向股东交代，要增发股票，募集更多的资本去开辟零售资源，提出SPA的概念，自己控制从生产一直到销售的所有环节，我也不依赖你百货，我自己建零售，怎么建呢，大型店铺，你百货在边上开着呢，我在边上开一个大型的店铺，但是我需要资本的支持，所以出现了SPA的模式，这个模式在发展过程当中业界一直在研究甚至一直在探讨，中国企业是否应该进入到SPA模式发展过程当中去，一个国际的案例一定会启发中国企业的演变，比如说美特斯邦威，最近几年推出的Me&CITY，我们在探讨森马这些原本大宗休闲企业的时候，他们正在去SPA化，可能在一个重要的商业街里面可以同时盘踞几家大型的商铺，依赖百货业

The shape began to change slowly.

Or the United States can see very important POlo living hall, and now see the store's construction mode is to build a shop pattern in the form of lifestyle, and even the division of each area is divided around the way of life, and this mode soon became a model of domestic imitation. The seven wolves soon found the key. It was clear that they found their own reference, positioning themselves as the establishment of China's POLO, seven wolves are listed companies, the private placement of shares, and to the shareholders to explain the eight hundred million main re placed upgrading in the distribution channels. There are 40 wolves wolves ecological museum in the eight hundred million, which not only brings capital, but also changes in form and mode of sale. The second way of life experience museum is already being produced. Some people call life hall. The concept of this mode is also available in the early international stage. This mode can be used in Japan.

Clothing supermarket convenience store mode is also evolving in recent years. UNIQLO, rooted in the Japanese market, has put forward a new mode supermarket mode. All the clothes that you want to buy when you come in are bought by the cart, so the clothes can be bought on the same day. So in Japan, people are seen pushing cars to buy a dozen socks. Today, there are also changes. In China, with the continuous domestic and international cases, Hai Lan's home has created its own new retail mode, which has become predatory in the market. We are exploring the definition of a systematic business mode behind each mode, and today's time relationship can not be dissected one by one.

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Multi brand store mode, many brands in a store for chain operation. Early in Hongkong, a company like IT grew up in this way. What I sell is its own agents in the world and its own brand in its own store, which is sold in the sub area. Many brands are put in one area, but the chain is I T. In fact, China's sports 100 is also developed in this way. I put Adidas, Nike, back to back in a store and locked in the whole country. This mode especially changed our understanding of the retail industry in the past, broke the traditional concept, and was soon accepted by the market.

Designer brand integration shop has always said that designers are hard to develop, or they can make people get married and independent. But the designer brand has been reassembled by other people. After that, designers have been integrated into a brand, and foreign designers focus on their works. In China, people have been trying. In 08, ID has been opened in Shanghai. We are studying any business rule. Any case does not represent a certain success, but it decides that it thinks about the possible business models triggered by its success, and China is also trying to change it.

Store in a shop, and products are not necessarily clothing. If we go to Hongkong and visit some island cities, we will see shops like this, which may be sold by Dior, or maybe Adidas will be sold in a shop. The products that are carefully selected by their buyers are put into the shop for sale. Has anyone tried this way in China? In fact, some people in China have launched the naming house. Some people have pushed it out to choose boutique in the global purchasing network. They also opened their CBD in Beijing or opened their business in the most important business circle, or set up their own fashion club or even fashion secretary's service or fashion consultant's service. The model of buyer selected shop has been in Japan for many years, and it is used professionally to select "shop choice".

You find that a lot of retail ways are evolving very fast in our short span of three or four years. Each case may rise in the last three years, and may disappear in the next three years, and the new model will come out again.

单品专门店的模式，在日本专门卖袜子的店铺，也是连锁的，而且市场做的很大，专门卖袜子，各种各样的袜子，这是在日本实地拍的照片，只卖袜子这样一种方式，而这个方式实际上我们很容易看到，也很容易去学，但是能否学好是值得思考的问题，中国有家企业也去学，中国三足针织品有限公司，推出3•Z•U，在07年底的时候是100家，现在是150家，在推行这种模式，以单品的专卖店，而这种单品的专卖店包括T恤，把T恤做得很专业，这种店铺在日本很受欢迎，在中国也有，衫国演义，所有的店铺里面卖得就是T恤，这个也不便宜，我们发现有很多的模式在参考背后下不断的有人在升级，不断有人在大胆的尝试，而且尝试的过程给我们商业带来的无限的遐想，所以我以最快的时间一下子把大家拉到可能很微观的市场里面去，07年到现在我们似乎可以来理解，这七大

The pattern of retail stores, and the seven store models, are also constantly enriching our way of circulation. How do we go about it? What channel do we enter to sell our products, whether they are forced or their own innovation, business is in such an evolution.

The mode of selling and shop will inevitably evolve into a new category killer in the future. We can see the possibility of the future development of China's apparel retail industry through the changes of clothing store mode in recent years.

如果到此为止商业就没有想象了，最古老的商业模式是店铺模式，在具有潜在消费力的地方去开铺，这是店铺模式，没有人把自己的店开在没有人去的地方，这个我们可以理解的，我们已经理解了前面几个观点还有创新呢，在流通的渠道变革当中还有什么可以创新的，百货、购物中心、大超市、大卖场，连酒店和机场都被人占去了，多媒体也有人做的很好，还有什么办法，我们拿更小的案例，有四个模式，过去我也讲过，有人在写字楼开商店，把铺子搬到写字楼里面去，我在一年前也说过，连写字楼都变成渠道了，在日本有这样一个企业，专门在写字楼开店铺，而且是连锁，方式是区别于普通的店铺，提供更好的服务，提供更升值的服务，包括档案的建立，提供商品信息，提供免费的避孕套，甚至提供租赁服务，非常的细化，必然用更细致的服务去提高自己的商业

The competitive ability, service upwards, means are constantly improving, and the customized mode of the wedding birds is dedicated to office buildings, specifically for white-collar workers, to create the building economy in the clothing industry.

Office buildings have also been occupied, and some people have done it. Of course, the better ones are yoga houses and weight reduction centers.

　　社区店，前段时间日本一个朋友来跟我交流，说中国产生了社区化网络，这个社区还给自己定义叫高贵的住宅区，社区形成了社区的经济，社区的商业也随之形成了，社区的店铺专门把自己的店铺开到高级社区里面了，如果以深圳、北京以两万以上/平米的价格作为一个区别，专门开到这里面的商业，在武汉有一家企业，这家企业专门在社区里开店，店铺的销售额第一个月15万，淡季的时候是10万，突然看这个数字一点都不稀奇，因为在商场里面做一百万的企业都有，但是有一个数字要关注，毛利率有40%，如果在商场里做到30万，没有这么多的毛利率，而且在这样的社区里面店铺形象扩大了，服务做得更细致，依文专门选择在北京高档社区里去自建物业，开设自己的社区店铺，这个店铺里面也提供全天候免费的熨烫护理的服务，这些都是重新认识，几年前我们在

关心山东的说你买两条裤子我送你一条裤子的时候，这个时代在不断的演化，所有手段都用之其极，只有想不到，没有做不到的事情，连公寓也变成开店的地方，现在在中国还没找到这样的模式，可以说在美国或者是伦敦可以看到，包括POLO这样的公司在公寓里面专门建公寓的店铺，在伦敦有很多这样的时尚品牌已经找到自己的风格定位，他们甚至成为英国旅游指南当中最重要的一种文化炫耀的场所，因为这个地方表达整个在英国时尚文化的一个集中体现，其他一个私密性，你买东西到我家里买，这是一个假的概念，不可能是在家，但是制造的是一种家的感觉，而这种感觉是创造私密的生活片刻，如果我们看看服装史应该知道，过去贵族经常去私密的地方去选购这些东西，而公寓店已经成为这种新的渠道的方式。

　　游击店，游击打一枪换一个地方，这个概念在日本早期就还是了，专门利用这些报废的仓库或者是报废的加油站，在别人眼里是一个废气的地方，在那里建立自己定时销售的店铺，可能一年开一些时间，里面原本样子都不改变，在里面卖最时尚的产品，也会卖一部分过季产品，有人在城市广场做游击商店，把一个集装箱放在那里，也是开一段时间，有人专门是在某一个非常重要的街道去建一个展示点，非常小，你可以接触我的产品，可以接触我新功能的面料和新功能的T恤，更有人把店做一个BuS，开到哪里卖到哪里，40多品牌，一千多个品类的产品，可以用网络通知人们，我今天这个车会开到哪里去，这种流动的渠道的模式展现在我们眼前。

所以你到了这里，我们在探讨盈利模式，无论说店铺、渠道还是不断演化出的创新，这里面一切的过程都在提醒我们，这个市场够大，这个市场竞争的层次未来会更加明显，取决于你要不要这个市场，如果我们说把前面所有的观点一个学理的观点去理解的话，只能说我们渐进的改、不断的改，是一种演化或者是演进，慢慢的看，我们超级市场超过你百货，进入了购物中心的市场，到了专卖店的时代，等等剧烈的变革才能形成革命，而这场剧烈的变革我觉得最关键是在于思想的变革，所以每次在准备一个课题的时候希望有输出，但是我看到时间已经到了，还要继续吗，我纠结了一下，我准备了下面一个内容叫发展路径，即使我们不去理解这些东西，或者是这些东西我们没时间去理解，或者也不想讨论这个问题，我们去思考发展的路径，在最后结束的时候用三个现实版

A case study is given to see if there are any suggestions for the development of textile and garment manufacturing enterprises.

　　第一个好孩子，大家都知道这个企业，这个企业很简单，是在美国可以说因而手推车和汽车儿童座椅是占据了三分之二的制造生产，有人统计了一下，在欧洲基本占据了13%市场，标准的生产型的企业，产品主要是婴儿车、电动车、自行车、学步车，这个13%是很大的，带有垄断性质的，肯定做的非常好，而这样的主打产品之后延伸了，延伸到服装、寝具、食品、其他，当进入到资本市场游戏规则，突然发觉自己这样一个生产制造业企业，竟然市盈率那么低，这么大家产、家业，包括市场份额，占据13%的市场，竟然比不过李宁这样一个市盈率，怎么也上不去，我在资本市场不值钱，是因为别人看穿了我的营业模式，这个模式没有几何性的增长的可能，也就是说我在生产制造只能做加减法，如果碰到运气不好的时候还变成除法了，因为市场发生变化了，怎么办?开始

想要碰零售，第一个推出了一个最简单的方式，一般所有生产企业都会有这样一个思路，我生产什么就卖什么，推出一个好孩子传统零售模式，就把我自己原来的产品放在一个店铺里面，我公司叫好孩子，我店铺的名字也叫好孩子，紧接着发生第二个改变，推出一个新兴商业模式叫妈妈好孩子，不仅买自己的产品，而且卖其他的产品，包括一些母婴护理产品，第三个手段拿到英国一个高端品牌作为高端的补充，跟它进行合资，商业很有意思，妈妈好孩子是为了上市零售业增加市盈率最重要的方式，而好孩子跟英国的这个去保持它零售行业获取中高端市场的机会，市场就分割出来了，高、中、低分割出来了，高中低不稀奇，必须要有一个零售模式，叫一站式母婴生产馆，包括安全用品、哺乳用品、婴幼儿食品，卫浴用品、玩具、家居、服饰，在讲这个案例的时候，这

The price earnings ratio has a chance, because it develops rapidly, continuously introduces the development of the entity, and begins to establish its own e-commerce or virtual platform to sell, in order to determine the position of business in China, of course, it is now facing a lot of changes, but at least the pformation is made, this is a production type enterprise to do a conversion.

　　第二个公司我相信在服装行业的人一点很清楚，叫宝成国际，是标准的OEM企业，耐克的大部分的订单来自于它，它自己研发设计能够拿到2800多人，耐克公司给这些研发人员讲流行趋势，研发人员作出产品，由耐克进行指导和选择，这样的企业几乎成为耐克重要竞争力的能力的体现，觉得自己光做OEM，宝成国际几年前收购一家企业，耐克跟他说，你做运动品牌不成了我的对手了，我就停掉了，我相信宝成国际不和平说我为了做中国的民族品牌或者是做一个国际品牌不要你的订单，这是不现实一个选择，结果放弃，耐克公司把这个破产的公司直接收购，等于说明明可以自己拿得东西必须交给别人，别人说你不要碰，是我的，这个选择对它来说也是最痛苦的，但是他做了一次战略性的调整，推出一个中国名字叫胜道，与其我做不了品牌，不能造车上路，我就造路，

I do not become a brand name, I become a channel business, what does it mean? This is the same reason as the case before, which is the same as that of sports 100. It is also the way that Sheng Dao can sell Adidas, Nike or 360, or XTEP, and concentrate on this source, and use a large amount of accumulated capital to compile other channels. Overnight, the name of the channel is changed into Sheng Dao. In the process of starting 08 years, 3881 shops are established, and we can only think about this mode. There are also some deficiencies in it, but it can be seen that the pformation from production form to retail form.

　　讲到这两个大型的企业，我就想卖自己的产品，有一家公司是这么做的，最后一个案例，美国著名的一个织品制造商，生产毛巾和床单一个标准的生产型企业，产品非常简单，毛巾、床单，后来开始做窗帘，甚至做了一些其他的浴室的家用纺织品，这样一个公司，1888年成立，后来在06年的时候跟北美一家家纺公司重新合并，建立一个新的公司，为了让自己的产品能顺利的进入百货渠道，把自己的产品进行组合了，组合的方式抓住了一件事情，用产品是死的，用产品叠加别的创造一种生活的场景，毛巾是死的，怎么去制造生活场景了，毛巾跟户外的道具放在一块，营造出一个户外的生活方式，启发了很多人说原来毛巾在家里用、户外用的，各种各样可以去思考去购买，一个小小的简单的生活场景的布局去创造了自己的销售的增长，这点是值得我们做的单独产品的

Enterprises to think about, I also saw in the country a towel making enterprise to make eco towel living hall.

In fact, we can not use any definition and view to solve the complex business that we are facing today. But every forum can not solve all the problems, but we can only solve one thing at the same time, but at least it can bring us deeper thinking. This is my wish, and I hope that in these tens of minutes, we can not only hear the news or the success of others in the dozens of minutes, but we will try it. For the future of China's market and the pformation of distribution channels, I believe that everyone can not just be an audience.