U Shaped Seven Knives With Sleeves

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In the work of playing board and sleeving, the industry used to wear sleeves on the armhole.

The traditional methods include box type sleeve matching and triangle matching sleeves. The drawing features are from top to bottom in the armhole.

It can be seen from the box type sleeve matching method and the triangle matching sleeve method: when the sleeve curve is added to the seam shrinkage, 2 to 4 eye location is often used, and the knife eye is almost concentrated at the bottom of the sleeve hill.

It is impossible to effectively control the balance between the sleeves and the silk thread of the garment, and the sleeve knife and sleeve hole are not at the same level. This will cause difficulties in sewing. When sewing, it is necessary to pull the knife eye.

This will cause the sleeves and the silk threads of the clothes to be crooked, and the sleeves will inevitably appear before and after.

Even if you are sewing a high hand, you can not achieve the effect of balancing the vertical and the front sides of the body and sleeves.

The technical requirements of modern advanced brand clothing are: the fit of clothing and sleeves, the vertical balance of silk yarns, the front and rear grids.

This requires that on the board technology, the armhole arc knife eye and sleeve rock arc eye are at the same level.

There are 4 balance point points on sleeve waist and armhole waist. There is a knife eye on the top of sleeve and the middle point of armhole bottom, and there are 7 knives for distinguishing the front and rear sleeve holes, as shown in Figure 3.

According to the performance and thickness of the fabric, the match between the sleeve arc and the arc of each armhole should be reasonable.

This can effectively control the balance vertical between the sleeves and the thread yarn of the garment body to achieve the effect of the front and back to the lattice.

Now, a new and fundamental solution to overcome the above disadvantages is in line with the technical requirements of modern high level brand clothing, and the exemption of the fitting sleeves is avoided.

U type sleeve matching technology (hereinafter referred to as U sleeve matching technology) is introduced to everyone:

The drawing features of the U sleeve matching technology are as follows: the U shape parabola is used from the bottom to the top of the armhole, and the shape of the cuff shape is formed, and then the drawing method of the sleeve shape is made according to the requirements.

The specific methods and procedures are as follows:

1. copy the armhole line and waist line copy of the completed body structure chart.

2. there are two ways to determine the height of sleeve.

(1) the sample will be worn on the mannequin, and the actual armhole depth will be measured as required.

(2) using the plane drawing method, we can make different styles of sleeve height.

3. design the location of the armhole.

4. design the amount of seam needed for each arc of sleeve hill.

Performance and thickness).

5. make sleeve rock arc.

(1) application of sleeve Hill chord length; armhole section arc length + seam shrinkage / 2.

In the past, the C point on the CB arc of the armhole is CB+O.25 (seam contraction / 2) arc length to 8F intersection line to get G intersection point.

(2) apply sleeve type arc = squared x 2.5 / chord length + chord length, because the chord length of sleeve length =CB+0.5 and sleeve Hill arc is known to be CG, the chord height dimension can be obtained, and the chord height MN is made at 1 / 2 of the CG line, then the three point arc line is CNG point, that is, the sleeve rock arc line of salty CNG line segment.

(3) by applying the above method steps, we can make the arc shape of each segment of GX, EJ and JK sleeves, and draw the arc of each sleeve arc to make the arc shape of sleeve sleeve before and after.

6. get the C and I bite points respectively at the K and X points perpendicular to the armhole.

7. make the front and rear sleeve cuff respectively, and copy the front and rear sleeve curve, through the reflection of the fold line, and synthesize the sleeve curve.

8. make sleeve long line, sleeve elbow line, cuff line, standard sleeve fertilizer line.

9. make a bias sleeve line.

(1) make a large offset sleeve line. Use the sleeve fat to balance the fold line and the sleeve rock arc, expand the curd rice backwards, and expand the 3 centimeters before making the points.

(2) make a small sleeved line, use the sleeve fat to balance the broken line and the sleeve rock arc, and balance back to shrink 1 centimeters, and shrink 3 centimeters before making the point.

10. distinguish the outline of the sleeves and make the 7 knives and the corresponding knives of the armhole to distinguish the arc of the back and sleeve sleeves.

And deepen the contour to complete the U shaped sleeve process.

The above is the basic theory and method of U - shaped sleeve technology, and its soul lies in its flexible application.

How to make the drawing process simpler and more practical, and how to adapt to the changing requirements of various armholes.

The sleeves will balance the fine silk yarn and the clothes. How to accurately calculate sleeve and hill shrinkage of different properties and thickness fabrics will be introduced to you in the future.