Street Style Brands In Russia Should Be Displayed In Commercial Suits.

This year, Pitti Uomo

There are several highlights.

Visvim's show is certainly one, and the Russian Street breeze brand Gosha Rubchinskiy.

Display Street clothing for Pitti Uomo spindle.

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In 2008, British journalist Charlie Porter interviewed Gosha Rubchinskiy and asked him: what is the future of the fashion industry? Then Gosha Rubchinskiy said, "I am the future."

10 years later, everyone will talk about Gosha Rubchinskiy. "

Now, looking back at what he said at the beginning is not a big deal.

After graduating from art school, Gosha Rubchinskiy worked as a stylist, makeup artist, hairstylist, and so on, but he did not learn professional fashion design courses.

In 2008, Gosha Rubchinskiy released his first homonymous Series in Moscow.

But because of the shortage of funds and restrictions on Russian factories, he only designed some simple sports jackets, jackets and trousers, and chose to hold a fashion show in the Soviet stadium.

Or because of the shortage of funds, unable to make the next series, no professional sales team, Gosha Rubchinskiy only launched the three quarter design has no trace.

Now, the popularity of the Russian brand is due to Wakubo Rei's husband.

Currently, Adrian Joffe, President of COMME des GAR ONS group, has an appreciation of Gosha Rubchinskiy, helping the brand return to the market in 2012.

Now the division of labor is that Gosha is responsible for the design work in Moscow independence, while Adrian Joffe is assisting apparel production in Europe, and the product department is set up at the headquarters of the Comme des Gar C ons in Paris.

It seems that the series of sportswear made by fund shortage has become a "foresight".

For example, sports and leisure are popular nowadays, and Gosha Rubchinskiy seems to cater to the needs of the times.

However, Gosha Rubchinskiy himself had a very thorough idea of the design.

Put aside his design style first, let's take a look at his design details.

Gosha Rubchinskiy grew up in Russia in the Yeltsin era, a difficult but full of opportunities.

His family lives in Moscow, and it's hard to find a job.

Russian local designers are intoxicated with popular culture and non mainstream culture in the West.

But he is proud of Russia and often uses this plot in his works.

The theme of Gosha Rubchinskiy 2015 autumn and winter series is based on the relationship between China and Russia in the 80s of last century. In the design, the flag is merged into logo, while the traditional Chinese and Russian characters of "movement" are two.

Subculture is another design factor he favors. Punks, skateboards and heads are all used for purposes.

You can also see his use of childhood memories, including things that Russian young people like in the age of 1990 years old - video games, magazines, gum.

One of his best sellers is a sportswear with the classic Tommy Hilfiger style and changed the original Tommy Hilfiger Logo to Gosha Rubchinskiy.

In the past, Russia had a large number of Tommy Hilfiger sports shirts that had been re engraved, and Russian young people who could not afford the real goods had to pay for them.

Today, Gosha Rubchinskiy has made such clothes "real goods" to the world that has been imitated before, so that the world that created classics can be consumed.

This exquisite satire is similar to Vetements.

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Two years ago, when Vetements released its first series, few people could afford its price fixing jeans at $1400.

A year later, Vetements made two explosions: a T-shirt that you can use 10 dollars to buy in Antwerp's souvenir shop in Antwerp (Antwerp), but the Vetements version is 225 dollars, and a large size raincoat that mimics the security personnel of the stadium. The Logo on the back is not written "security" but "Vetements", the price is 185 dollars.

The two items sold out in a few weeks.

Since then, Vetements has launched the famous yellow T-shirt with the word "DHL" printed on the chest.

These designs seem innocent and innocent, but in fact they are elaborate cynicism.

It is also a clever way to draw a clear line between street breeze brands and mainstream fashion. It is also another fashion model for teenagers' cultural needs.

"When I was doing the first show, I felt that 10 years later, this style would become popular.

It happened 8 years later.

It's interesting. "

Gosha Rubchinskiy said.

Gosha Rubchinskiy insists that 45 pounds of T-shirts and 95 pounds of sports pants can make teenagers like him affordable.

In fact, in the process, he gathered a large number of adults who also defined themselves as "Teenagers".

Now, his design has been sold in 92 stores worldwide.

There are many retailers who want to design his designs.

His new series is inspired by Italy writer, poet and Pier Paolo Pasolini, director of post Neo realism era.

"Pier Paolo Pasolini is opposed to globalism. He thinks it is best to keep Italy Italy spirit, let France be France, Russia is Russia."

Gosha Rubchinskiy said, "now is the time to think about what Europe is."

Now, this brand has been known as Supreme and Palace Skateboards, and basically has similar consumer groups with these brands.

Supreme and Palace Skateboards did not participate in fashion week. They chose to publish new models online before entering the store.

Fans waiting for the advent of new models has become part of their attraction.

But Gosha Rubchinskiy still seems to believe in the charm of T T, including its influence on its brand.

"I never wanted to be Supreme, and I didn't want to be Palace Skateboards, Gosha is Gosha."

Gosha Rubchinskiy said, "people say Gosha is the next Raf Simons, no, Gosha is Gosha."